Tuesday, April 21, 2020

Life Gets in the Way, Doesn't it?

OK, hopefully this will wrap up the mask tutorial.  So many of you have come upon your own tweaked style and pat yourself on the back.  I will finish this pleated mask and show a few quick pics of the other mask I like A LOT

So I believe we had stopped just passed cutting and fusing the interfacing.  Next up is to add the elastic.  If you want around the ear loops, you need 8 " x 2 loops for adults and 6" x 2 loops for children.  I have made mine a bit longer than suggested as feedback says the loops are too tight.  I, however, have started adding the elastic so it goes over your head, not your ears.  for this you need two pieces of elastic 10-11" in length for adults and 8-9" for children. (the ear loop version will have you pinning the elastic to the sides not the top and bottom)

Orient your mask so the printed fabric and right side up and in a landscape position.  Pin to elastic a hair over 1/4" in from the sides, but in a vertical position, do this on the top and bottome.  ATt his point it may be handy to know I use 1/4" seam allowances.  Pinning just a smidge over will ensure you do not catch the elastic in the side seam.  Pin mask to lining.  You will sew, starting at the bottom, around .  Be sure you do not accidentally catch your elastic  Back stitch each time you cross the elastic, and ALSO leave a 3" opening on the bottom.  You will need this for turning the mask.  Clip the corners so there isn't as much bulk when turning.






I turn and give it a good pressing.  At this point you can use the pleat hack, I provided the video link in the prior post or make little marks on both sides, left and right, not front and back, on the lining side.  The Flexion pens will leave marks that disappear with heat.  Pretty cool.  Make this marks at , from the top, 1 1/2" 2 1/4" 3 1/4" 4" 5" 5 3/4"   I must laugh as I had to check these measurements.  I had them written down for a few days then put a mask, freshly pressed on top and the info disappeared...  oh silly me.  I then pinch at the 5 3/4" mark on each side of the mask and fold on the 5" mark heading up from bottome to top.  I repeat this with the other two sets of marks, stopping to press carefully in between each step.   At this point you can unfold the whole shebang and turn it over.

You still have that opening at the bottom, yes I will fold it neater before sewing the opening.  Take whatever you are using for nose wire and insert through the opening and wiggle it into place at the top.  Rememebr there is a bit of fabric there,  I make sure my nose piece is flush against the top seam and secure it with pins, clips.  You can now pin, clip the opening closed and pin, clip the pleats in place.  This is quite a thick seam going on at the sides of your mask.  A walking foot is helpful, or perhaps your maching can just handle it.  I do back tack at the top and bottom of sides.  I try to get about a 1/8" topstitch going on.  When you get to the top, remember you have something metal up there so stop before you hit it and make that seam accordingly to secure the nose piece in place.  I do give it a very heavy pressing at this point to be sure the interfacing is secure inside.  Avoid the elastic as it isn't fond of heat.   There you have it.




The other mask I like very much is called the Olson Mask  This pattern has the option of adding a filter pocket.  I do like it has three sizes, including children.  I use just the face pattern piece and cut one pair from print fabric and one pair from lining fabric.  I also cut one pair from interfacing a bit smaller(i actually printed two copies of the pattern and gut one of them on the seam line to use as the smaller interfacing piece.)  Follow the instructions for sewing, inserting the nose piece. I use the shorter aluminum ones for these and the pattern makes a mask that is long enough from ear to ear that you can use the pony tail ties.  Just be sure to get the thinner ones.






This is an adult, larger child and smaller child.

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